We spend our Asheville weekend at the Cumberland Falls B&B, a pretty, comfortable, beautifully landscaped inn in the Montford Historic District, about a mile from the city center. Although our room was comfortable and nicely furnished, the highlights were the staff and the breakfasts. The staff was very friendly, knowledgeable and helpful in recommending restaurants, hikes and other things to do and the breakfasts were creative and delicious.
Two days in town gave us time for only four restaurant meals (not counting the wonderful, very large Cumberland Falls’ breakfasts. Our dinner choices were:
- Curate. This Spanish tapas restaurant was our favorite of the visit. We shared five plates and a bottle of Granacha. We began with a plate of three cured hams, (aged one, two and three years); mushrooms sautéed in olive oil with sherry; sautéed shrimp with garlic; Galician style octopus with sea salt, olive oil, Spanish paprika, and Yukon gold potato purée; and creamy chicken croquettes. Each of the dishes, not to speak of the service we received at the chef’s bar, were excellent.
- Chestnut. We had two dishes, both of which were very good. These were Apple-glazed trout with apple buerre blanc sauce with asparagus and roasted potatoes; and herb-crusted grilled swordfish with beurre blanc, olive tapenade and broccolini.
Lunches, meanwhile, ranged from Jamaican to BBQ.
- Nine Mile, a Jamaican/Caribbean Restaurant at which we had two dishes. Nigril Nights, which is grilled wild tuna with vegetables and fire roasted tomatoes in a coconut jerk sauce over rice, was delicious. Meanwhile, Island in the Sea, sautéed shrimp, crab and diced clams with squash over spinach pasta in a marinara sauce was nondescript.
- 12 Bones Smokehouse. The line to order was long, but it moved quickly. After ordering and paying at the counter, the huge portions of food came almost immediately. The ribs, which we ordered, can be ordered with any of three dry rubs and you can select or mix and match any of four different sauces. We shared a huge, good rack of ribs with two large sides of mac and cheese (nothing special) and a very good corn pudding. Although we couldn’t even finish the main plate, we couldn’t–and we’re glad we didn’t–pass up a slice of pecan pie.