Guimaraes is generally considered to be the birthplace of Portugal. This informal title is attributable to Alfonso Henriques who, in 1139, declared himself King of Portugal and chose Guimaraes as his capital. His reconstructed castle, which was first erected in the 10th century as protection against the Moors and the Normans. was later expanded by the King of Burgundy before being adopted by Henriques.
The city has a lot to explore.
Strolling Old Town
Take time to stroll through the old medieval town. The neighborhoods and the squares are very interesting to just wander and explore. The cobblestone streets and 17th and 18th–century balconied buildings provide character while the several plazas, almost all lined with restaurants and cafes and filled with tables provide continual activity. The plazas are particularly pretty and fascinating in the the evenings, with all the windows lined in lights, the tables filled with diners, couples strolling through, children running around playing and hawkers selling balloons, lighted toys and other attractions to the children (or at least to the children’s parents).
Guimarães Castle
A reconstructed castle again stands atop the hill overlooking city.
Palace of the Dukes of Braganza
Nearby is the Palace of the Dukes which was built in the early 15th century. It fell into disrepair in the 18th century. was used as a military barracks in the early 19th century, and rebuilt in the 20th . The Palace is furnished in period-appropriate furniture, tapestries, and art that was fitting for a Duke. Although several of the rooms are impressive, we were particularly impressed by the vaulted ceilings and huge tapestries of the Banquet Room and the Great Hall.
Centro Internacional des Artes Jose de Guimaraes (CIAJG)
On our 2023 trip, the museum had several special exhibits, a number of which combined contemporary, along with several historic pieces into exhibits that integrated African, pre-Columbian and Chinese works to demonstrate connections among cultures. While several had had individual interesting pieces, the one that most connected with us was an exhibit of African masks which had played instrumental roles in traditional rituals, but are now viewed as little more than merchandise to be sold to tourists. The one that connected the least: an installation by Brazilian artist Artur Barrio of a generally dark room with a couple of couches, an opened umbrella, piles of wine bottles and rocks and cables spread across a floor—all of which was covered in a dark brown sand-like powder that appeared almost like coffee grounds.
Convent of Santa Clara
Just down the hill from that is the pretty Convent of Santa Clara. Built in 1548, nuns occupied it until 1841. Today it is the City Hall. Go inside to see the beautiful cloisters and garden
Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Oliveiras (Our Lady of Olive)
The historic gothic church is located on Oliveiras Square. It was once a monastery and has been restored several times. It has a beautiful alter inside.
Guimaraes Restaurant
Hool, where we had a ringside table on Largo da Oliveiras, one of the largest and most active of the squares, with views of the pretty Church of Nossa Senhora da Oliveiras and the early 16th-century Old Town Hall, with its barrel-vaulted arcade, crenulated pediment and rooftop sculpture and all the evening activity. The food was some of the best, most interesting, and most artistically plated of the trip. We began with two amuse bouches (smoked eel with beet juice between beetroot puffs and a fascinating cheese combination that wrapped a soft cheese in a harder cheese (served on a mousetrap). Two entrees followed: sea bass with scarlet shrimp, cauliflower, and algae; and squab with apple paste, a tart filled with minced squab and foie gras. A bottle of Douro Carm Vinho Blanca Reserva (a blend of Codeigo de Ladinho, Rabigato and Vioshino grapes from Douro Valley complimented the food. So intrigued with the food and the entertainment in the plaza that we had to stay for dessert, an equally good and presented dish of chocolate, hazelnuts, coffee, Tonka bean powder and salted caramel ice cream with a 20 Year Niepoort Tawny.
Hotel
We stayed in Old Town at the Hotel da Oliveira, which also housed our restaurant. It was an excellent location in historic center. Very comfortable room, fabulous staff, and a nice breakfast was provided either inside or on the outside patio. Note: driving is limited in the historic district. You have to park outside the area but you do have limited hours to drop off suitcases. We are surprised that the hotel did not reinforce this information before we arrived.
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